DOGLIANI AND THE ALTA LANGA

Dogliani, an important town on the River Rea strategically placed between the hills of Barolo wine and the Tanaro valley, can be considered to be one of the gateways to the Alta Langa, although it does not fall within any of the 'comunitā montana'. Historically, however, Dogliani's markets (livestock, truffles, milk and cheese) have always been a point of reference for all the inhabitants on the higher hills of the Langa. The birthplace of Einaudi, the first President of the Republic who produced his own wine here, is therefore a good place to start any exploration of the Upper Langa. The town's home-grown grape-variety is Dolcetto, and Dolcetto di Dogliani has been awarded DOC status. Other famous sons of Dogliani are Giuseppe Gabetti, the author of the Royal March, Domenico Ghigliano, the inventor of sulphur matches and above-all Giovan battista Schellino, an eclectic, original architect. And it is with the architecture of Schellino in Dogliani that our itinerary begins: the grandiose Parish Church, the Holy Family Institute, and the monumental entrance to the Cemetery. Dogliani is divided into two areas: Borgo (the lower part of the town, where the narrow main street still features the original arched gates) and Castello, a maze of alleyways on the rock, with a fine civic Tower overlooking the valley, and the mediaeval keep of Caldera Castle. The Castle leads on to the 14 shrines of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Grace on the road to Belvedere Langhe, its castle ruins and a priceless dew. This is the Alta Langa, with its myriad of little villages, hamlets and isolated chapels that await visitors on the gentle hills of the Tanaro and Belbo Valleys. The ridge separating them is also the most panoramic view. Go carefully, though: practically every turning, lane and footpath reserves pleasant surprises and deserves to be followed (particularly on foot, bike or horseback). The main centres are: Bossolasco, with its late mediaeval Palazzo Balestrino, and its historic centre - overrun with roses - and artist signs; Murazzano, which as well as giving its name to the great dop-status cheese, also has one of the most interesting old centres (the remains of the Langhe's only windmill are to be seen here too), dominated by a fine square stone tower; and Mombarcaro, which at 900 metres is at the very top of the Langhe. From here you can descend to the Reserve of the Source of the river Belbo for an outing in uncontaminated nature, or seek out gotich frescoes, or discover the romanesque chapels of San Pietro in Mombarcaro, San Frontiniano in Arguello, San Ponzio in Marsaglia, San Sebastiano in Paroldo; if you prefer towers and castles, do not miss the ones in Marsaglia, Benevello, Ciglič, Albaretto, Cravanzana, Niella, Castellino, Rocca Ciglič and Sale. A relaxing stop-off can follow in one of the inns which have signs painted on the front wall and pergolas leaning against the building, facing the village square where the local game "Balon" is played: the history of elastic ball is written on these walls dented by anonymous one-day heroes and genuine legends like Ghindo, Manzo, Bertola. A match of Pallone Elastico in the piazza is still a unique spectacle, socially as well as in sporting terms, as the local writer - Beppe Fenoglio - knew only too well. A visit to Fenoglio’s haunts means an obligatory stop at the Benedictine Abbey and the Osteria di Placido in San Benedetto Belbo, before either climbing way up as far as the sombre Bossola Pass and the cemetery of Murazzano, or going on to Luetta, an abandoned Mombarcaro hamlet - archetype of all the writer's hamlets - or to the isolated Langa Farm, high up above the valley in Benevello. In any case, whatever your itinerary might be, these hills will leave their mark and a longing to return.